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AAO Ambassador Trip report: James Jenden

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"On Monday, May 28, life got insane. It was the first day of my two-month crash course in field geology. I'm not exactly into doing lots of work, so if it wasn't for the fact that my course is in the Black Hills, I'd probably be going insane right now. Thank God for Custer State park. It's been my saving grace since I got here. During the week, I get to plan climbs  and dream, and on the weekends, those dreams get to come alive. When you spend almost every waking moment during the week looking at a mind-numbing amount of rocks, the chance to get out and climb is certainly welcome. 



Pretty much all the climbing I've done in my short career has been quite safe. In the gym, most of the stuff is toprope, as at Devil's Lake, and all of the stuff I climbed in Joshua Tree was really well protected trad. If you've ever climbed in the Spires, you know what I'm getting at right now. Climbing there is all about guts. About 90% of the routes there are 5.8 and below, but they make up for easy moves with scary exposure and runouts. The East Face of Station 13 is probably the best example of this I've run into so far. My partner Jonie and I were guiding two of our friends up, and so Jonie convinced me that the 5.7 East Face route would be more fun for them than the 5.10 I wanted to do. Resigned to his good reasoning, I started up the chimney that made up the bottom half of the climb. The climbing was easy, fun, and well protected, and then I got out of the chimney. Suddenly, I was looking at a traverse onto a blank face, marked by a single, lonely bolt, and I was twenty-five feet above a C3. I managed to plug a micronut that I had no confidence would hold a fall, and moved onto the face. I'm not quite sure how long those moves to the bolt took, because my mind was pretty much full up with the thought of whipping sixty feet into a chimney (assuming that C3 held), but they were some of the scariest I've ever done. I smiled at the end, and it hit me that climbing in The Spires is all about confidence in your own ability, and being able to have the mental toughness to ignore consequences. It's totally different than anything I've done before, but the more I climb here, the more I enjoy it. Apart from the East Face of Station thirteen, I've taken friends up Spires Two (twice) and Four by the Conn routes, and climbed a fun hands and fists crack called Little Lark. There's also a ton of cool boulder problems that I've put up around here with Jonie. I've enjoyed being in an area where the bouldering is largely undeveloped, and most of the problems we do, we've created.



My Eos 1 tent has served me quite well this summer, along with my Baffin Jacket, and my Hydrogen bag has kept me nice and toasty ."



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The Scarpa Spark received an Editors Choice Award

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 The Spark received an Editors Choice Award in the June issue of Trail Runner magazine….some of the highlights and comments are below!


“The Spark is SCARPA’s first stab at a lightweight, performance shoe- and they nailed it”

“a stiff midsole and flexible rock plate provide ample protection from trail obstacles while allowing ground feel”

“the Spark has the best traction of any shoe I have tested” Jeremy Duncan - tester

“light enough for short races and durable and comfortable enough for treacherous mountain ultras”

“I was blown away by the superior traction! The Spark is definitely my go-to shoe for technical, rugged trail conditions.” Blair Speed - tester



Some additional comments below, from Ueli Steck on our blog……….who has been training in the Spark in Europe and the Himalayas:

“I run it mostly on single (track) trails in rocky terrain. The grip is just outstanding, it’s the perfect density – not too hard and not too soft,” Steck says. “The shoe gives a stable feeling because you are very close to the ground, but still offers enough shock absorbing. It’s a shoe to run in the hills, and once you use it in the mountains you understand what it is made for,” – Ueli Steck.


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Marmot Wm's Trail Wind Hoody review- Fitness Magazine

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Marmot Wm's Variant review- Women's Adventure Magazine

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Marmot Connect glove review- DownHome Magazine

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Brian Block speaking at Climb Iowa in Grimes this Sunday, March 25!!

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1 Hour Sale

1 Hour Membership Sale
Climb Iowa
3605 SE Miehe Drive
Grimes, IA 50111
515-986-2565

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1 Hour Membership Sale
No Better Price, Ever
Don't forget to be at Climb Iowa on March 25 from 6:30 to 7:30pm for our 1 Hour Sale.  Climb Iowa will offer a one year membership for $323 or $583 for a family of 4. These prices will be available during this hour only.
  • Time: 6:30 - 7:30 "On the DOT!"
  • Date: March 25
  • Prices

Please fill out the membership form in advance.  We will accept credit cards, but if you pay with cash or check subtract $10 from the price above.  Spread the word far and wide, do not miss this sale!

Stay to hear Brian Block talk about Everest: A New Lesson in Suffering!
  • Time: 7:30-9:00pm

Charlie Wittmack
The World Triathlon
Charlie Wittmack will be talking about his  World Triathlon.  The World Tri is possibly the most difficult endurance challenge ever conceived: A 10,000-mile triathlon from England to Everest. Including swimming the English Channel, riding a bicycle from France to Nepal, and climbing Mount Everest.
  • Date: April 1st
  • Time: 6:30 pm
  • Location: Climb Iowa
  • Cost: Free


Climb Iowa, Iowa's Largest Climbing and Training Center!

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AMERICAN BREWERS TURNING TO LIBERTY BOTTLEWORKS FOR UNIQUE, ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY BOTTLING

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Liberty BottlesMicrobreweries from coast-to-coast are looking to Yakima, Wash.-based Liberty Bottleworks for a new way to sell their suds, whether as conveniently sized, durable mini growlers or special packaging for limited edition brews and events.
In the last six months, more than two dozen breweries across the country have partnered with Liberty to create customized bottles, including Dogfish Head, Austin Beerworks, Left Hand Brewing, Black Star Brewing and, most recently, one of the largest microbreweries in the country, Boulevard Brewing.
“We’re passionate about our product and the way we produce it and we’re passionate about good beer; it’s really our ideal match,” said Liberty Bottleworks Co-Founder and Executive Vice President Ryan Clark. “Working with these great breweries is incredible for us because it connects us to people who are invested in their art and invested in the value of American craftsmanship the same way we are.”
Made entirely of recycled aluminum and 100 percent BPA-free inside and out, Liberty bottles are made from start to finish in America on American-made machinery.
“Dogfish Head strives to support American based companies as well as companies with sustainable products and practices as often as possible,” said Delaware-based Dogfish Head Brewery’s Lindsey Falkowski.


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Runner’s World names SCARPA Spark ‘Best Debut’ in trail running footwear

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SCARPA North America BOULDER, Colo. - In its Spring trail-running footwear guide, Runner’s World Magazine named SCARPA’s Spark trail runner as ‘Best Debut’ in new trail shoes for 2012. The annual April issue that features the season’s best trail shoes came out this week. 

“The shoe offers impressive protection from sharp trail obstacles, thanks to a plate under the forefoot and wide overlays at the base of the upper,” Runner’s World wrote. “With all that, the shoe weighs just 9.7 ounces … Bottom Line: A lightweight trainer ideal for steep, shale-covered trails.” 

SCARPA, well-known for its dominance in hiking, backpacking, skiing, mountaineering and rock climbing footwear, first developed a more comprehensive line of trail runner’s starting four years ago. Each year it has grown the collection, and for 2012 it introduced four new models – including the men’s and women’s Spark – driven by its ‘Mountain Minimal’ philosophy. SCARPA Mountain Minimal strives to build very lightweight trail shoes, but footwear that still retains a sufficient level of midsole cushioning and sole traction for true mountain running in rugged terrain. 


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Hillsound Super Armadillo Nano Gaiter review- from Upadowna website

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Upper Shell: Schoeller C_Change with NanoSphere
Lower Shell: SuperFabric
Size: S, M, L, XL
Uses: Mountaineering, Alpine, Mixed Climbing
MSRP: $98
No matter how you look at it snow filled boots is bad news and it is one of the things that can quickly turn a nice hike into a disaster. The majority of folks that get out during the winter months are at least somewhat aware of what gaiters do and why they are a nice bit of protection, but what folks don't often think about is finding a set of gaiters that can cover them regardless of activity. Sure for hiking and snowshoeing standard gaiters can be great, however as soon as you strap crampons on your feet most gaiters are pretty susceptible to tears when the spikes bump the fabric.

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Hillsound Armadillo gaiter review- from Our Everyday Adventures Blog

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Review by:  Jake
2/4/12
Last summer, while attending the Outdoor Retailer sporting goods trade show, I walked by a booth with one of the sexiest gaiters I’ve ever seen on display.  I thought to myself, that thing looks part formula one race car and part ninja, melded together into a gaiter.  I never thought a pair of gaiters could be sexy, but dang, I was in love at first sight!
While I was drooling, one of the reps came out and talked to me for a while about the gaiter.  I learned that I was looking at a prototype and that the full production wouldn’t be available for a few more months, and that it was from the company Hillsound, and it was called the “Armadillo Gaiter”, a rather unsexy name for such a sexy gaiter.  If they would have asked me it would have been called the “Scorpion Gaiter” or at least something a little more lethal than an armadillo.  I came to find out later that the actual name was the Super Armadillo Nano Gaiter, a little more sexy I suppose, but it’s still named after an animal that likes to play dead.

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Marmot Product report from Fabrizio Zangrilli- Marmot/AAO athlete!

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This photo is from a great day of mixed climbing on Mount Lady Washington, RMNP CO, two days ago. The climbing was great fun, very moderate multi pitch mixed climbing (M4-5 ish) in the sun with great pro and great views to the east face (Diamond) of Longs!
I must tell you that after so many years of not wearing Gore-tex I am really loving the Alpinist Jacket and Pant! Really loving them, they are so stretchy and dynamic, and quiet - this is a huge change from the Gore I remember. It is nice to know that I can be dry all day alpine climbing and comfortable at the same time!!! If, like me, you have only been wearing soft shell for the past half decade, it is worth having another look at hard-shells with stretch.

As you can see I am also wearing the SCARPA Phantom 6000s - amazing boots, as you know, they climb so well, as well as any single boot I have ever worn - and you know that I have worn many pairs over the past 25 years! I anticipated going to a NE facing route that day, otherwise I would have been in my Phantom Guides, but we saw the chance to climb some mixed routes that form infrequently, and being south facing and warm we jumped at the chance - it is cold in Rocky Mountain National Park at this time of year in the shade. I had the AAO Athlete Ambassador Baffin Jacket with me in my pack at the base, but it was not needed up there.
Thanks so much for all the support over the years!!!!
Fabrizio

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Marmot commercials- tune in!!

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Take a look at this week's programming times below for CNN, Discover Channel and ESPN.This is just the beginning of a strong Marmot Fall 2011 TV program!

Take special note of this Monday Night - November 14 - ESPN - NFL Monday Night Football Countdown Show……………..we've got a special billboard feature on this show.

Also note that the following weekend of November 19 we'll see Marmot commercials on college football !


Note: All TV shedules are subject to change:

CNN:

11/15:

8:46p (Anderson Cooper)

11/16:

1:59p (Newsroom)
4:08p (Situation Room)

11/17:

9:07a (Newsroom)
10:20p (Anderson Cooper)
1:08a (Anderson Cooper repeat)

11/18:

7:27a (American Morning)

11/19:

8:36a (Saturday AM)

Discovery:

11/17:

4:30p

ESPN:

11/14:

(1) Feature (NFL Monday Night Football Countdown Show) - ESPN
(1) Spot at 11:45p – ESPN2

11/16:

(1) Spot at 12:10p - ESPN
(1) Spot at 2:11p – ESPN


11/17:

(1) Spot at 1:04a, 2:03a, 5:04a

11/19:

(1) Spot during College Gameday at 10:16a – ESPN
(1) ESPN College Football feature time TBD – ESPN2
(1) Spot during ESPN College Football Primetime at 7:54p and 5:18a – ESPN 2
11/20:

(1) Spot during Sportscenter at 6:23a – ESPN 2

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Elevation Outdoors Marmot review!

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Outdoor Magazine S12 Marmot picks

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Article: Barefoot running a 'fad'?

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German running biomechanics researcher calls barefoot running a 'fad’
Posted: 08/29/2011

A national class gymnast turned biomechanics professor, Gert-Peter Brüggemann, Ph.D., began taking a harder look at running with his athletic and scientifically-inclined eyes more than 25 years ago. Competitive life as a high bar and tumbling gymnast was over after the 1972 Munich Olympics and, to stay in shape and blow off steam, he became a recreational runner. But can an analytical type just do something without pondering every step? Brüggemann is now the director and a professor of biomechanics at the Institute of Biomechanics and Orthopaedics at the German Sport University, Cologne. And he was the consulting researcher behind the Brooks Running PureProject running shoes, which debuted at the 2011 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market.

To Brüggemann, natural motion is the key to staying injury free, and that research has put his stamp on other companies’ footwear over the years, too. Ask him about the barefoot running trend, though, and you’re sure to get an earful. SNEWS asked him about just that and more to gain insights about where he thinks running footwear is headed. In the end, however, what does Brüggemann really enjoy about his work? Making a difference, he said. So forget all the technical chatter, he wants to make your running safer and more comfortable.

SNEWS: How does a biomechanist and former top-flight gymnast become THE running shoe researcher globally?
Brüggemann: Working with gymnasts and gymnastics skills — the most difficult movements in sports or in general — built a perfect basis to understand human motion and locomotion and to do research on the most natural movement: running. My experience with recreational running began three decades ago and since then I have personally enjoyed the development of technical footwear and running shoes. My interest in running is based on my own practical experience, but is mainly driven by increasing the understanding of this cyclic movement in general and the relationship of musculoskeletal loading and biological tissue response in more detail.

How do you feel about the trend of barefoot running?
Barefoot running on artificial surfaces is nothing more than a strange fad. In a population that lives in footwear and on artificial surfaces, running barefoot is not at all the habitual or “natural” way of locomotion. The biological system in modern society is habituated and adapted to using shoes that offer an interface with some cushioning to the artificial ground, and offer load distribution and support. Especially in running, the barefoot trend will increase the frequency of overloading and serious overuse injuries.

What then is the future of barefoot or minimalist running?
Barefoot running on an artificial surface has no future. It is a short-term trend and will disappear soon. What will survive is the additional training for the foot through barefoot workouts on natural surfaces or in specially designed footwear. Running increases the potential and the strength of the cardiovascular system, and barefoot training trains the structure and functional capacity of the musculoskeletal system. Barefoot training – not barefoot running – will be an add-on for the runner to make him or her stronger.

How has your research and recommendations changed over the years?
In 1995, I was part of a team that published the first critical paper on impact forces and its possible relation to injuries. This was – from my point of view – the start for a great change in footwear technology. The cushioning concept was replaced by motion concepts. We focused on motion control and especially on the control of rearfoot eversion or pronation. Some years later, we began to switch the focus to the new paradigm of natural joint motion that was first discussed in 2006. Each phase of research from cushioning to motion control to natural motion has increased our understanding of running motion and had an impact on recommendations for running shoe technologies.

What do you see as the benefits of the Brooks PureProject footwear, on which you most recently consulted?
PureProject and PureProject technology is closely related to and based on our concept of the natural joint motion or, in other words, the preferred motion path of the joints with least resistance. Increased joint frictional resistance and additional muscle work increases the energy demand and makes running less comfortable and enjoyable. The PureProject concept does not interfere with an individual’s motion. Therefore, the runner can feel his or her interaction with the physical environment and the ground, and can enjoy a comfortable stride.

Before Brooks, you worked with Ecco and Nike. Can you explain the differences and how they have affected the path of running shoe development?
The designers of Ecco listened to the natural motion discussion carefully and from this, derived the main ideas of their Biom concept – that is, low to ground, more or less artificial heel cushioning, and energy dissipation. Nike Free was a completely different story. From the experience of athletic training and the experience of barefoot movement on natural grass, they derived the concept of mimicking the foot’s motion barefoot on grass while using footwear on an artificial surface. The purpose of Free was to train the foot structures and especially the intrinsic foot muscles. Free was originally not designed as a running tool, but a training device mimicking a biomechanical situation for the development of the foot.

What makes your work exciting and interesting for you every day?
We started years ago extremely mechanically, then added the muscles to the understanding, and finally learned of the tissue behavior and its response to loading. Research on humans is now the major challenge of our work. Every day is exciting because every day gives deeper insights. The most challenging work is when you can contribute to changes and innovations, for example through sporting goods or – like in our case – running shoes.
-- Therese Iknoian


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Brian on Everest: Phlog from 4.30!

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Brian on Everest: Phlog from 4.29

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Brian on Everest: Phlog from 4.28

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Marmot's Plasma 30 in the Wall Street Journal!

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Marmot’s Plasma 30 sleeping bag was selected by The Wall Street Journal.com and featured in the Saturday “Off Duty” section, click the link below to read more!




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Brian on Everest: New Phlog! April 23rd

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...stories of perilous, nay, endless traveling in the ever changing midwest territory...